The state’s small population is composed of Native Americans, people of Spanish descent, whose ancestors entered what is now New Mexico in the 16th century, and the so-called Anglo-Americans. Together these groups constitute a multicultural society unlike that of any other state.
Much of New Mexico is reminiscent of an earlier time. Examples are its Native American festivities, its adobe villages, and its many remnants of pre-Columbian and Spanish architecture. However, New Mexico also played a role in the development of the atomic age. With the explosion of the first atomic bomb at the Trinity site at White Sands Proving Grounds in 1945, New Mexico became an important center for nuclear research and development.
The region north of Mexico was named Nuevo Mexico by a Spanish explorer in the 1560s. The name was translated and applied to the United States territory organized in 1850 and later to the state when it became the 47th member of the Union on January 6, 1912. New Mexico is called the Land of Enchantment. Santa Fe is the capital of New Mexico. Albuquerque is the largest city.
New Mexico covers 314,917 sq km (121,590 sq mi), including 606 sq km (234 sq mi) of inland water. It is the fifth largest state in the United States. The state is roughly square in shape, and its extreme dimensions are 565 km (351 mi) from east to west and 629 km (391 mi) from north to south. The state’s highest point is Wheeler Peak at 4,011 m (13,161 ft), and the lowest is Red Bluff Reservoir at 866 m (2,842 ft). The mean elevation in New Mexico is about 1,740 m (5,700 ft). It is bounded on the north by Colorado, on the east by Oklahoma and Texas, on the south by Texas and Mexico, and on the west by Arizona.
Four natural regions make up the New Mexican landscape: the southernmost portion of the Southern Rocky Mountains, part of the Colorado Plateau, part of the Basin and Range province, and part of the Great Plains.
The Rocky Mountains reach southward into New Mexico in two branches, one on each side of the Río Grande Valley. To the east are the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the state’s highest and most extensive mountain range, which reaches as far south as Glorieta. Within these mountains, near Taos, is Wheeler Peak. About 80 km (about 50 mi) farther south is North Truchas Peak, which reaches 3,993 m (13,102 ft).
To the south and west of Santa Fe are numerous mountain ranges. Most of these are ragged ridges varying from a few kilometers to 130 km (80 mi) long and running generally parallel from north to south. They are mostly fault-block ranges: chunks of the earth’s surface that have been broken and slowly pushed up above the surrounding land. The larger and higher of the ranges are the Sandia, Sacramento, Mogollon, Guadalupe, and Manzono mountains and The Black Range.
Between the fault-block ranges are wide extensions of the Basin and Range province: the Tularosa Valley, Río Grande Trough, and the area along the western side of the Colorado Plateau. Many of these basins have no drainage to the sea and are lowly filling up with sand, gravel, and soil washed down from the mountains.
One of the largest such basins in the world is the Tularosa Valley, between the Sacramento and San Andres mountains. The sands in and around White Sands National Monument, composed of tiny grains of gypsum, cover 582 sq km (225 sq mi) of the valley’s floor. Other similar basins are the plains near Deming, the Playas Valley near Lordsburg, the Estancia Valley, the Jornada del Muerto, and the Plains of San Agustin. The western two-thirds of the Basin and Range province is the northernmost extension of the Mexican Highland. The eastern portion is generally called the Sacramento section. The mountainous areas west of the Río Grande include the Nacimiento Uplift, the San Juan Mountains, and the Jemez Mountains. These ranges have deep canyons and several peaks rising above 3,300 m (11,000 ft). All are largely volcanic in origin, and in the center of the Jemez Mountains is a great collapsed crater, the Jemez Caldera. At nearly 470 sq km (180 sq mi) in area, the caldera is one of the largest in the world. Long extinct, the crater is now a grassy valley known as Valle Grande. Hot springs are numerous in this region.
The Colorado Plateau in western New Mexico is a land of great horizontal layers of rock consisting of brightly colored sandstones, limestones, and shales. These are largely the hardened sediments of ancient sea bottoms and sandy shores. New Mexico’s portion of the Colorado Plateau is divided into two sections. South of Gallup the region is known as the Datil section and north of there as the Navajo section. The general elevation of the plateau is from 1,500 to 2,100 m (5,000 to 7,000 ft). The rock layers are sharply broken off and worn away to leave high cliffs, mesas, buttes, and deep canyons. Each mesa, or plateau, is deeply eroded, showing the edges of rock layers. Over many centuries vast amounts of rock have crumbled and washed down the Colorado River. The Colorado Plateau area is the most thinly inhabited part of New Mexico but one of the most beautiful. The red sandstone cliffs near Gallup are well known, as is the golden-brown sandstone butte of the Enchanted Mesa near Grants.
In the same area volcanic rocks have pushed up through the sedimentary rocks. Mount Taylor, in the San Mateo Mountains, is an old volcano near Grants that rises 3,445 m (11,301 ft). Elsewhere the volcanic rock poured out as spreading sheets of lava. Some of these sheets have been eroded to leave mesas and buttes; others have been eroded away almost entirely, leaving only hardened cores where the lava was originally forced up. Ship Rock is a volcanic plug with radiating dikes that rise about 430 m (about 1,400 ft) above the present level of the land.
Part of the vast level expanse known as the Great Plains Province lies within eastern New Mexico, stretching from its northern to its southern tip in a belt from 160 to 240 km (100 to 150 mi) wide. The High Plains, the flattest section of the Great Plains, extend southward into New Mexico from Colorado. The High Plains are also called the Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain. The Spanish name is believed to be derived from the plain’s escarpment on the north and west having a palisaded, or stockaded, appearance.
Elsewhere, the Great Plains are more eroded and rolling. To the north of the Llano Estacado the Canadian River has cut a canyon 300 m (1,000 ft) deep, and to the west the Pecos River occupies a wide rolling valley. This region, known as the Pecos section, is a maze of rocky cliffs and mesas and narrow ravines and canyons. Isolated hills and buttes are scattered throughout the plains, especially in the Raton section in northeastern New Mexico. These peaks, some rising above 2,700 m (9,000 ft), were important landmarks in early days. The best known of these are The Wagon Mound (2,122 m/6,930 ft) and Capulin Mountain (2,494 m/8,182 ft), which is an almost perfectly shaped cone of lava and cinders in Capulin Volcano National Monument.
New Mexico’s major river is the Río Grande, originating in southern Colorado, and flowing southward for 760 km (470 mi) through the state. Between the San Luis Valley and Española Valley the river flows in a deep canyon known as the Río Grande Gorge; then, below White Rock Canyon, it flows through several valleys containing agricultural land. Most of the water of the Río Grande is used to irrigate these valleys. The Río Grande’s waterflow in New Mexico is extremely low.
One of the major tributaries of the Río Grande is the Pecos River, which rises in northern New Mexico and joins the Río Grande in Texas. Other tributaries of the Río Grande in New Mexico are the Rio Puerco, Galisteo Creek, Rio Chama, and Red River.
The Continental Divide, made up of ridges and other high ground separating rivers draining to the Atlantic from those draining to the Pacific, crosses the state from north to south. The Canadian River runs eastward from New Mexico to join the Arkansas River. The San Juan and Gila rivers flow westward to join the Colorado River. Most of the state is drained by dry washes, called arroyos, which after summer thunderstorms can carry large amounts of water, causing flash floods.
The largest bodies of water in New Mexico are reservoirs built to irrigate the dry lands. These include Elephant Butte and Caballo reservoirs, and Cochiti Lake on the Río Grande; Conchas Lake and Ute Reservoir on the Canadian River; Navajo Reservoir on the San Juan River; Abiquiu and El Vado reservoirs on the Rio Chama; and Lake McMillan on the Pecos River. In the Sangre de Cristo Mountains are numerous small glacial lakes, mostly at elevations above 3,300 m (11,000 ft).
The climate of New Mexico is generally mild, sunny, and dry. Most of the state has between 250 and 500 mm (10 and 20 in) of rainfall annually. Winters are drier than summers. Temperatures and precipitation vary widely from night to day and from winter to summer. In addition, climate varies greatly within each natural region. Higher mountain areas have a much cooler and wetter climate than lower areas nearby.
Average annual precipitation ranges from about 200 mm (about 8 in) in the Río Grande and San Juan river valleys to more than 760 mm (30 in) in the northern mountains. The overall average for the state is 330 mm (13 in) per year. July and August are the wettest months. Nearly half the year’s precipitation occurs during the summer, mostly in the form of brief but often heavy thunderstorms. Winter precipitation falls as snow in the mountains and as either rain or snow at lower elevations. At times during the winter, cold air masses moving southward from Canada invade the state and produce blizzards and cold waves, especially in the northern parts. Annual mean temperatures vary from about 16° C (about 60° F) in the south to about 10° C (about 50° F) in the north. The southern areas, however, have many days of summer temperatures in the upper 30°s C (lower 100°s F). Temperatures in the lower -20°s C (below 0° F) can occur in all areas during the winter.
The many national and state recreation areas, beautiful scenery, Spanish colonial heritage, and renowned art galleries draw thousands of visitors to New Mexico every year. Popular events such as the International Hot Air Balloon Festival and the New Mexico State Fair, and sites such as Carlsbad Caverns continually attract visitors from around the world. During the summer, the state’s mountains, rivers, and lakes are havens for outdoor enthusiasts. Winter sports, such as downhill skiing and cross-country skiing are enjoyed by residents and visitors alike.
With a population of 1,819,046, New Mexico ranked 36th among the states in 2000. The population density was only 6 persons per sq km (15 per sq mi) in 2003. Like other states in the Southwest, New Mexico underwent a rapid population increase after 1950. Migration from other parts of the United States contributed to this growth. In 1950 only 681,187 people lived in the state. The population increased by 40 percent in the 1950s, by 7 percent in the 1960s, by 28 percent in the 1970s, by 16 percent in the 1980s, and by 20 percent in the 1990s. The regions around Albuquerque and Santa Fe are the most rapidly growing areas.
The population is unevenly distributed. Most of the people live near the Río Grande, Pecos, and San Juan rivers. Albuquerque is located on the Río Grande. More than one-third of the state’s total population lives in the Albuquerque metropolitan area. In 2000 some 75 percent of the state’s inhabitants were classified as living in urban areas. Of the remainder, classified as rural residents, some lived on isolated farms and ranches, but the majority lived in small villages, especially in the north.
New Mexico’s rural population tends to live in or around settlements related to its tri-cultural history. Most of the villages and towns are small, but relatively stable, adhering to traditional cultural values. In the eastern counties, Anglo-American populations are still primarily tied to agriculture or energy production; in the central and northwestern regions, Native Americans are rapidly modernizing their economies, but remain faithful to their reservations and traditional lifestyles.
Throughout the state, but particularly in the north-central mountains, Hispanic towns dating back to the early period of Spanish and Mexican land grants represent enclaves of traditional life and family culture.
Small towns and villages throughout the state often provide too little employment and have too little agricultural potential to provide steady and secure income to their residents. Long distance commuting for employment at federal or state government facilities, or local employment in extractive industries such as mining and lumbering or tourist services provide the economic means for these settlements to continue.
New Mexico is proud of its tri-cultural heritage, which is evident in its cuisine, architecture, languages, and cultural events. Native Americans, Hispanics, and Anglo-Americans each contribute to the unique culture that is New Mexico.
Many Native Americans, comprising 9.5 percent of the population, reside on six reservations and in 19 pueblos. They are the fourth largest Native American community in the United States. Some of the pueblos, such as Taos, Acoma Pueblo, and Santa Domingo, predate the Spanish conquest of New Mexico. The three major Native American cultures are the Navajo, Pueblo, and Apache. Most of the Navajo live on a large reservation in northwestern New Mexico and adjoining states. Many Navajo raise sheep, but they also earn income from oil and other mineral production, manufacturing of missile guidance systems for the United States Department of Defense, lumbering, and from vast expanses of irrigated cropland. The Navajo irrigation project is one of the largest in the state.
Most of the pueblos are located in the Río Grande Valley. A few of the pueblos (Zuni, Acoma, and Laguna) are found in west central New Mexico. Some of the best-known pueblos are Taos, Zuni, Santa Clara, San Idelfonso, Acoma, and Jemez. Most of the pueblo people are employed in cities near the pueblos, although some engage in farming. Los Alamos National Laboratory employs many pueblo people who live nearby. Traditional arts and crafts are a source of income for the pueblos and are sold to both tourists and local residents.
Two groups of Apache, the Jicarilla and the Mescalero, live on separate reservations. The Jicarilla reside in northwestern New Mexico, on land rich in oil and gas. They also derive income from lumbering and ranching. The Mescalero occupy land in south central New Mexico and are engaged in lumbering and ranching. They also own and operate the Ski Apache resort, the only ski area in the southern part of the state.
The newest source of income for many reservations in New Mexico is gambling. Large casinos have been built on these lands and are becoming a significant contributor to the Native American economy.
Hispanics, who may be of any race but in New Mexico are primarily of Mexican descent, represented 42.1 percent of the state’s population in 2000. The exploration and conquest of present-day New Mexico by the Spanish and, later, the Mexicans, introduced a culture that continues to influence the character of New Mexico. The Camino Real became a major trade route between parts of New Mexico and Mexico, introducing new foods and other cultural attributes to the area. In some of the northern counties, Hispanics constitute a large majority of the population, and in some parts of New Mexico, Spanish is the primary language. Early Hispanic settlers were granted lands first by Spain and later Mexico. Many of these land grants, most of which are in northern New Mexico, are owned today by the descendants of these early settlers.
Anglo-Americans are the third component of the tri-cultural character of the state. Whites comprised 66.8 percent of the state’s population in 2000. This percentage included many of the Hispanics, who are classified as being of any race. In the early and mid-1800s, trappers and explorers entered the state. When the Santa Fe Trail opened, it served not only as a conduit for trade with the Hispanics, but as a route of travel for Anglo-Americans in their westward expansion. Many chose to settle in New Mexico. Though Anglo-Americans occupy most areas of the state, many reside in the large urban areas or in the eastern part of the state where ranching and the extraction of oil and gas are primary sources of income.
New Mexico’s largest city is Albuquerque, which was one of the fastest-growing cities in the United States in the second half of the 20th century. From 35,449 in 1940 the city’s population rose to 463,874 in 2002.
Santa Fe (65,127 people in 2002), the state capital, is the second oldest city in the United States, after Saint Augustine, Florida. It is known for its narrow winding streets, adobe and colonial buildings, and restrictive zoning. Roswell (44,058) is the chief city of the Pecos Valley and eastern New Mexico. Las Cruces (75,015) and Alamogordo (35,107) are the main cities of the southern part of the state. Farmington (40,563) is the principal city in the northwest. Los Alamos (18,305) is a modern city located in the forest on the Pajarito Plateau along the eastern side of the Jemez Mountains. The site was selected by the federal government in 1942 as a location for nuclear research. Carlsbad (25,196) is famous for its underground caverns. Taos (4,920), although small, is one of the nation’s notable art centers.
The rugged and spacious beauty of New Mexico’s mountains and deserts offers many recreational opportunities and places to visit. Ruins of early Native American civilizations, abandoned Spanish missions, crumbling military outposts, battlefields of the American Civil War (1861-1865), and deserted mining towns are reminders of the state’s colorful past. Pueblos that existed before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadores continue to flourish, as do Spanish and Mexican communities.
Outdoor sports can be enjoyed year-round in New Mexico. Fishing, boating, and water skiing are popular sports in the state’s lakes and reservoirs. Fly-fishing is a common sport on many streams and rivers in the state, and rafting and kayaking on the Río Grande below Taos are enjoyed by many people. Facilities for winter sports such as skiing and snowboarding are operated at nine resorts. Five national forests provide facilities for hiking, camping, and fishing.
Carlsbad Caverns National Park, in the southeast, is famous for the largest and most extensive underground caves and corridors found in North America. Eleven areas have been made national monuments. Near Alamogordo is White Sands National Monument, a huge desert of pure-white gypsum dunes. Bordering the monument are the military proving grounds where the first atomic bomb was tested in 1945. An extinct volcanic cinder cone rises 300 m (1,000 ft) in Capulin Volcano National Monument. El Malpais—“the badlands” in Spanish—is a volcanic area with a lava tube system 27 km (17 mi) long and ice caves. The area is also rich in ancient Pueblo history and features diverse ecosystems. Fort Union National Monument, north of Las Vegas, was once a military depot on the Santa Fe Trail. El Morro National Monument southwest of Grants, is a sandstone cliff popularly known as Inscription Rock. The oldest date on this historical autograph album is 1605, inscribed by Juan de Oñate, the Spanish colonizer of New Mexico. Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument, near Mountainair, preserves a 17th-century Spanish mission.
The most notable and accessible ruins of prehistoric Pueblo culture in New Mexico have been made into national or state monuments. Aztec Ruins National Monument preserves the site of a 500-room dwelling occupied by the Pueblo (not Aztec) people during a period before the 14th century. Archaeological sites that provide glimpses into the 12,000 year span of human occupation of the Albuquerque area are preserved at Petroglyph National Monument. More than 15,000 Native American and Hispanic petroglyphs (images carved in rock) stretch 27 km (17 mi) along Albuquerque’s West Mesa escarpment. Chaco Culture National Historical Park has 13 major Native American ruins and hundreds of smaller sites representing the high point of Pueblo pre-Columbian civilization. Other Pueblo sites are at Bandelier National Monument and Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, and at Pecos National Historical Park.